mortise and tenon jig


But adding the support bracket makes it much easier to clamp to your workbench. Then flip the jig around and scribe the near side. Slide a square piece of scrap against the flutes of the router bit. The jigs cut down on layout as well. Using a plunge router with the jig, woodworkers can quickly and easily cut both mortises and tenons ranging from 1/4" to 1/2" thick and from 1" to 3" wide. The combination creates a guide that makes it hard to cut other than dead straight and square.

The jig is ready to use right out of the box to produce 1/4-inch mortise and tenon joints for cabinets, furniture and frames. Back the test piece with a scrap and make a pass on each face to produce the tenon. While not necessary, it makes it easier to juggle things as you clamp the workpiece to the jig. With it, you can pare both sides of a specific-size mortise located a pre-determined distance from the edge of the workpiece. Finally, look at your technique. A cut-out just above this dado along the rabbeted edge will create better access for a clamp. That should be the starting point for the depth of the rabbets. Transfer both edges of the bit onto the fence. And you still need good saw and good chisel technique to get the best results. A ledger strip let into the back of the bracket rests on the benchtop, and the width of the bracket makes it easy to clamp in most vises without racking. But there are a few more components you should make to significantly enhance its capabilities. Features: It is one jig that performs two functions – cutting a mortise as well as the matching tenon, making it a good option. If the tenon is too thick, raise the bit slightly. Drill the three 1⁄4″ holes for the bolts through the stacked- up parts. Lay out a tenon on the end of a test rail the same thickness as your project pieces.

With mortises larger than that, I find I have better control by plunging the bit into the work with a plunge router rather than plunging the work onto the bit. Set the height of the spiral upcut bit to 9⁄16 We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.

A leftover piece of spacer holds the work level. With the tenon partially seated in the mortise, there should be enough friction that, if you lift the tenoned workpiece, the mating piece comes with it. " plywood skin with a cutout for the bit. The jig comes completely assembled and is ready to use right out-of-the-box to produce the widely used 1/4" mortise and tenon joint. The last accessory you may find useful is a set of depth stops. Most important is a set of spacers for cutting various sizes of tenons automatically. Next, consider your saw. HI, PR and other US Territories will be quoted at current rates. Masking tape can be used to make minor adjustments to thickness. That all may sound a bit like I’m peddling snake oil, but the jigs are very simple in concept. Sizing the spacers accurately is key. Then move the chisel along just a bit and make overlapping paring cuts until you’ve cleaned up the whole side of the mortise. This shop made mortising jig was originally designed by Philip Morley. Cut a 1⁄2″-wide x 1⁄2″-deep dado in the upright, set 9⁄16″ from the back edge, and a rabbet to leave a matching tongue on the edge of the support bracket. Shape the bracket as desired, then glue and screw it into place. A router plane is perfect for this task, but you can choose whatever method allows you to take off small amounts while keeping the rabbets flat and parallel.

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